Skip to content
Cartier Paris Tank LC (Ref. 78086) 18K WG, 1970s — view 1 of 6
View 1 of 6 · Image: Craft & Tailored · original image source (opens another website in a new tab)

Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Cartier Paris Tank LC (Ref. 78086) 18K WG, 1970s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Cartier (maker)
Date
1970s
Country of origin
France
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
CTRTLCP78086WG
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (CTRTLCP78086WG)
Catalogue title (original)
1970s Cartier Paris Tank LC (Ref. 78086) 18K WG (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number CTRTLCP78086WG), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated 1970s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

The Cartier Tank has become one of the most iconic watch designs of all time, and other than some more eclectic references produced has remained relatively the same over its long run of production. The Cartier Tank was originally designed in 1917 and became commercially available in 1919, its design was inspired by the Renault FT-17 tank used by the French Military in the First World War. The Cartier Tank is the perfect example of excellent design transcending generations. The Tank moved through the early 20th century only to become more relevant during the mid-century design era, and is once again seeing a massive resurgence amongst the watch-collecting community today. The now more than 100-year-old watch design was the timepiece of choice for many of the cultural elite throughout history, the most famous of which being Princess Diana, Muhammed Ali, and of course Andy Warhol who was actually quoted saying the iconic phrase "I don't wear a Tank watch to tell the time. In fact, I never wind it. I wear a Tank because it's the watch to wear.” While the primary alloy used for every classic Cartier wristwatch model is 18K yellow gold, its not unheard of for some models to be produced in differents metals in this era, but it is extremely uncommon. The ref. 78086 is a beloved reference for the Tank Louis model for its refined design of the Tank model, this specific example however, is cast in 18K white gold, an extremely rare variation of the reference which makes for both a more exclusive timepiece with an elevated aesthetic. SPECS Stock # CTRTLCP78086WG Brand Cartier Style Tank LC Model 78086 Serial 17XX Size Men's / Unisex Material 18K White Gold Dial White Roman "Paris" Millimeters 23.5x30 Strap 2pc Blue Saffiano Leather Strap W/ 18K WG Cartier Deployant Clasp CASE & BRACELET The iconic square case cast in 18K white gold is in excellent condition, featuring all of its original hallmarks and factory markings, with gentle signs of use and minimal evidence of prior polishing present. The watch retains its original blue sapphire cabochon crown. The watch comes supplied on a custom blue saffiano leather strap with a later Cartier 18K white gold deployant clasp, the strap is sized to fit a 7-inch wrist. DIAL & HANDS The original white Roman numeral "Paris" dial features the hidden Cartier signature within the 7 o'clock numeral and is in very attractive and presentable vintage condition, showing a subtle spotting patina and gentle aging throughout. The original blued hands remain in excellent condition. ACCESSORIES None. The watch is keeping time, but the service history is unknown. A movement service can be purchased upon request.

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Detached lever escapementIdentification Centre

Related records