
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Cartier Paris Santos-Dumont 18K YG (Ref. 96054) "Extra Plate", 1980s
- Maker / attribution
- Cartier (maker)
- Date
- 1980s
- Historical period
- Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)
- Country of origin
- France
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Stock no.
- CTRPSD96054EP
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (CTRPSD96054EP)
- Catalogue title (original)
- 1980s Cartier Paris Santos-Dumont 18K YG (Ref. 96054) "Extra Plate" (English)
View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction
Record summary
Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number CTRPSD96054EP), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated 1980s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Craft & Tailored
The Cartier name is synonymous with luxury and has been since the brand's inception in 1847. Offering bespoke and unique jewelry to the world’s elite allowed Cartier to grow steadily through the 19th century and eventually introduced new offerings to their clientele. Cartier’s first timepiece was actually the world's first aviation watch and was introduced in 1904, only a year after the Wright Brothers' famous first flight in 1903. The inspiration for this timepiece came from Louis-Francois Cartier’s close friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, an early Brazilian pioneer in aviation, after becoming frustrated using a pocket watch to time his flights, which during this time were under a minute. The Santos-Dumont hit Cartier's showrooms in 1911 with a Jaeger-LeCoultre movement and introduced the rest of the world to the iconic art deco design that today, remains only slightly changed. This Carter Santos-Dumont is best known amongst collectors as the "Extra Plate" or "Extra Thin" and is one of the thinnest Cartier watches ever produced and features a total thickness of 4.4mm. This impressive feat is achieved through the utilization of the renowned Frederic Piguet Cal. 21 ultra-thin mechanical movement. Though this Cartier Santos-Dumont "Extra Plate" is one of the thinnest watches Cartier ever made, it retains the standard height and width dimensions of the Santos-Dumont in this era. This makes for a perfectly proportioned timepiece, both beautiful and elegant with the added benefit of sliding under the shirt cuff with ease. Stock # CTRPSD96054EP Brand Cartier Style Santos-Dumont "Extra Plate" Model 96054 Serial 10XX Size Men's Material 18K Yellow Gold Dial White Roman "Paris" Millimeters 27x36 Strap 2pc Handmade Leather Strap W/ 18K YG Cartier Tang Buckle CASE & BRACELET The extra-thin 18K yellow gold case is in beautifully preserved condition, showing elements of only gentle polishing in the past while maintaining the originally intended bevels, chamfers, and finishing throughout. The case retains its original blue sapphire cabochon crown. The back of the case retains all of the watch's original factory markings and hallmarks in crisp and clear condition. The watch comes supplied on a 2pc handmade leather strap with the original 18K yellow gold Cartier tang buckle. DIAL & HANDS The original white "Paris" dial with black Roman numerals is in excellent overall condition and features a beautiful vintage aesthetic. The surface of the dial does exhibit spidering which is extremely common for these dials, but there is no actual chipping present. The original blue hands are in perfect condition. ACCESSORIES
Historical context
Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)
Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.
Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
Related records
Clocks · 1863
Clock by Albert-Ernest Carrier-Belleuse, France, 1863
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
Clocks · c. 1980s
Cartier "art Deco", c. 1980s
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Clocks · c. 2000s
Cartier Desk Clock with Alarm, c. 2000s
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Clocks · c. 2000s
Cartier Lacquer Arched Desk Clock with Alarm, ref. W0100037, c. 2000s
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Wristwatches · c.1989
Steel, France and Switzerland, 1989; designed by Yaacov Agam (born 1928) for a limited edition by Movado
Victoria and Albert Museum, London
Wristwatches · c. 1972
Wristwatch, France, c. 1972
German Clock Museum
Wristwatches · 1986
Wristwatch, France, 1986
Työväenmuseo Werstas
Wristwatches · c. 1970-1980s
Cartier wristwatch, ref. 10713, Riviera, circa 1970-1980s
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
