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Cartier Paris Ellipse (Ref. 78091) 18K YG, 1970s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Cartier Paris Ellipse (Ref. 78091) 18K YG, 1970s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Cartier (maker)
Date
1970s
Country of origin
France
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
CTRELS18K78091
Credit line
Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (CTRELS18K78091)
Catalogue title (original)
1970s Cartier Paris Ellipse (Ref. 78091) 18K YG (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number CTRELS18K78091), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated 1970s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Craft & Tailored

It's common knowledge that the Cartier Tank is one of the most iconic watch designs of all time, but the Cartier brand and jewelry juggernaut also produced some eclectic references that are just as interesting and in many cases much more rare than the classic Tank. The Cartier Ellipse is one such watch from the Maison. The Ellipse was introduced alongside the Cristallor, Gondole, and Vendome for the "Louis Cartier Collection" that Cartier launched in 1973. Though the Ellipse shares the stepped case aesthetic of its brethren, its oval shape and size make it a unique take on the Cartier formula that makes for a watch that has a surprising wrist presence that is nothing but stylish. Stock # CTRELS18K78091 Brand Cartier Style Ellipse Model 78091 Serial 78091XXXX Size Unisex Material 18K Yellow Gold Dial White "Paris" Millimeters 23X32 Bracelet Cartier Paris 2pc Burgundy Lizard Skin Leather Strap W/ 18K YG Cartier Tang Buckle CASE & BRACELET The 18K yellow gold case is in overall exceptionally well-preserved condition, showing only gentle signs of use. In between the steps of the case, a rosy patina is starting to develop in the gold, a sign that the watch has potentially never seen a polish. The watch retains its original blue sapphire cabochon crown. The case back retains all of its factory engravings and hallmarks in crisp and clean condition. The watch comes supplied on its original Cartier Paris 2pc burgundy lizard skin leather strap. DIAL & HANDS The original white enamel "Paris" signed dial has a beautiful vintage aesthetic and is in excellent vintage condition. The surface of the dial does exhibit extensive spidering which is common for these dials, there is no actual chipping present. Along with the spidering the dial has achieved a handsome warmth through age which adds to the unique beauty of the watch. The original blue hands are in excellent condition. ACCESSORIES

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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