Skip to content
Cartier Panthère ref. 866911, 'Small' Size — view 1 of 6
View 1 of 6 · Image: Oliver & Clarke · original image source (opens another website in a new tab)

Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Cartier Panthère ref. 866911, 'Small' Size

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Cartier (maker)
Date
c. 1990s
Country of origin
France
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 22 mm
Stock no.
OC2704
Credit line
Dealer listing, Oliver & Clarke (OC2704)
Catalogue title (original)
Cartier Panthère Ref. 866911 - 'Small' Size (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Oliver & Clarke (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number OC2704), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated c. 1990s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 22 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke

For Cartier, the panther has showed up throughout the brands history, dating back to 1914 when it first appeared on an invitation to a jewelry exhibition flier. In that same year, a panther pattern would take shape on a ladies wrist watch in the form on diamonds and onyx inserts. This began an ongoing panther motif that continues until this day. In 1983, Cartier debuted a watch collection that took the name Panthère. These pieces featured characteristic integrated-style link bracelets with hidden clasps, as well as rounded square cases that mimicked the Santos family. The Panthère that we have here, a 'small' size dating to circa the 1990s, comes to us in excellent overall condition. It features a 22mm x 30mm case with a matching integrated-style bracelet, a hidden clasp, and an attractive cream-tone dial inside. Like so many of Cartiers designs, the handset is a 'sword' design crafted out of blued-steel, which matches that sapphire cabochon crown at the 3 o'clock position. This is a beautiful neo-vintage offering of an always in-demand model.

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Detached lever escapementIdentification Centre

Related records