
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Cartier Must Tank Manual 'Lapis' Dial, 1980s
- Maker / attribution
- Cartier (maker)
- Date
- 1980s
- Historical period
- Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)
- Country of origin
- France
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Dimensions
- Case 23 mm
- Stock no.
- Product 8475341717687
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Huntington Company (product 8475341717687)
- Catalogue title (original)
- 1980s Cartier Must Tank Manual 'Lapis' Dial - Box and Papers (English)
View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction
Record summary
Catalogued by Huntington Company (dealer) (stock number Product 8475341717687), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated 1980s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 23 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Huntington Company
History and Significance The so-called Lapis Tank does not use real lapis stone. The Must de Cartier stone dials were lacquer-painted to resemble materials like onyx and lapis. Even so, the effect is impressive. The deep blue lacquer with gold-toned flecks gives the watch a distinctive look while still preserving the elegance of the Tank design. It is an appealing way to add color without leaving the dress watch category. The Must de Cartier line was introduced in the mid 1970s as a way to broaden Cartier’s audience while keeping the visual identity of the brand intact. These watches were made from sterling silver with thick gold plating. The line became a major milestone, marking Cartier’s first non-precious metal watch and its first mass-produced model. Production grew from roughly 3,000 watches per year to more than 160,000 by the end of the decade. The range included faux-stone dials, wood-style lacquer, tortoiseshell effects, and the well-known Trinity dial. The Lapis-style dial remains one of the most recognizable and frequently admired variants. Writer’s Thoughts This Tank feels familiar in size and layout, but the blue lacquer dial changes the mood entirely. It adds just enough character to make the watch memorable while staying true to the original design's clean lines. Our Promise Every watch is thoroughly vetted, carefully described with complete transparency, and guaranteed authentic. Each piece is offered in honest condition, ensuring collectors receive a timepiece that reflects both originality and integrity. Specifications Brand: Cartier Model: Must de Cartier Tank Year: Circa 1980s Case Material: Sterling silver with gold plating Case Size: 23mm by 30mm Dial: Blue lacquer Lapis-style dial Crystal: Mineral Movement: Manual wind Strap: Generic strap Buckle/Clasp: Cartier gold-tone buckle Condition Case: Clean overall with the gold plating still all intact Crystal: Light wear, no cracks Dial: Lapis-style lacquer dial with spidering visible under certain light Hands: Original and clean Strap: The strap is new Buckle: Cartier buckle in good condition .
Historical context
Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)
Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.
Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
Related records
Clocks · 1863
Clock by Albert-Ernest Carrier-Belleuse, France, 1863
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
Clocks · c. 1980s
Cartier "art Deco", c. 1980s
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Clocks · c. 2000s
Cartier Desk Clock with Alarm, c. 2000s
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Clocks · c. 2000s
Cartier Lacquer Arched Desk Clock with Alarm, ref. W0100037, c. 2000s
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Wristwatches · c.1989
Steel, France and Switzerland, 1989; designed by Yaacov Agam (born 1928) for a limited edition by Movado
Victoria and Albert Museum, London
Wristwatches · c. 1972
Wristwatch, France, c. 1972
German Clock Museum
Wristwatches · 1986
Wristwatch, France, 1986
Työväenmuseo Werstas
Wristwatches · c. 1970-1980s
Cartier wristwatch, ref. 10713, Riviera, circa 1970-1980s
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
