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Cartier Must Tank Classic Roman Dial (Ref. 590005), 1980s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Cartier Must Tank Classic Roman Dial (Ref. 590005), 1980s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Cartier (maker)
Date
1980s
Country of origin
France
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 23 mm
Stock no.
Product 8561028759735
Credit line
Dealer listing, Huntington Company (product 8561028759735)
Catalogue title (original)
1980s Cartier Must Tank Classic Roman Dial (Ref. 590005) (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Huntington Company (dealer) (stock number Product 8561028759735), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated 1980s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 23 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Huntington Company

History and Significance The Cartier Tank is one of the most recognizable case designs ever created, originally introduced in 1917 and inspired by the top-down view of military tanks. By the late 20th century, Cartier expanded the line through the Must de Cartier collection, making the design more accessible while keeping the core proportions and aesthetic intact. Reference 590005 follows that same formula. The case retains the classic Tank profile with straight brancards and a balanced rectangular shape that wears slim and close to the wrist. This example features a vermeil construction, with a sterling silver base and gold plating, a hallmark of the Must line during this period. The dial stays true to Cartier’s design language with Roman numerals, a chemin de fer track, and blued steel hands, all laid out in a way that feels both structured and easy to read. Pieces like this represent an important chapter for Cartier. They brought an iconic design to a wider audience without changing what made it recognizable in the first place. Writer’s Thoughts The classic Roman dial is the version most people picture when they think of the Must Tank, and it remains the most balanced and wearable configuration. The ivory tone and traditional numeral layout give the watch a straightforward elegance that works in both casual and formal settings. It is the most timeless of the Must variations and tends to age well because of its simplicity and clarity. Our Promise Every watch is thoroughly vetted, carefully described with complete transparency, and guaranteed authentic. Each piece is offered in honest condition, ensuring collectors receive a timepiece that reflects both originality and integrity. Specifications Brand: Cartier Model: Tank Must de Cartier ref. 590005 Year: 1980s Case Material: Sterling silver with 18k yellow gold plating Case Size: 23mm by 30mm Dial: Ivory Roman dial Crystal: Mineral Movement: manual wind movement Strap: New strap Buckle/Clasp: Cartier buckle Contents: Watch only Condition Case: Excellent condition with strong and even plating Crystal: Clear with minimal marks Dial: Ivory Roman dial in amazing condition Hands: Original blued steel hands in excellent condition Strap: The strap is in fantastic condition Buckle: Original Cartier buckle in excellent condition

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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