
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Cartier Must de Cartier Ladies Tank 'Vermeil' W/ Blue "Lapis" Lacquer Dial, 1990s
- Maker / attribution
- Cartier (maker)
- Date
- 1990s
- Historical period
- Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
- Country of origin
- France
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Stock no.
- CTRMDC-3
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (CTRMDC-3)
- Catalogue title (original)
- 1990s Cartier Must de Cartier Ladies Tank 'Vermeil' W/ Blue "Lapis" Lacquer Dial (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number CTRMDC-3), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated 1990s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Craft & Tailored
The Cartier Tank has become one of the most iconic watch designs of all time, and has remained relatively the same over its long run of production. It was originally designed in 1917—inspired by the Renault FT-17 tank used by the French Military in the First World War—and became commercially available in 1919. It's the perfect example of excellent design transcending generations. It moved through the early 20th century only to become more relevant during the mid-century design era, and is once again seeing a massive resurgence amongst the watch-collecting community today. The Must de Cartier line was released as a diffusion, or a more attainable and affordable version of the classic Tank. They're often featured in Vermeil or "silver gilt” cases, which are comprised of gold-plated sterling silver. That, combined with the inky black, marker-less dial, makes this model both striking and classy, and a great way to dip your toes into the world of the Tank. SPECS Stock # CTRMDC-2 Brand Cartier Must de Cartier Style Tank 'Manual Wind' Model N/A Serial 309XXXX Size Women's Material Vermeil Dial Blue "Lapis" Lacquer Millimeters 20 x 28 Bracelet 2pc Black Alligator Leather Strap W/ Cartier Gold Plaque Tang Buckle CASE & BRACELET The classic tank-style vermeil case is in exceptional, likely-unpolished condition, showing minimal wear and no loss to the gold plating. The watch retains its original blue sapphire cabochon crown, though this does show some tarnish to the gold plating due to use. The back of the case retains all of the factory engravings in deep and crisp condition. The watch comes supplied on a two-piece black alligator leather strap with a gold plaque Cartier tang buckle. DIAL & HANDS The original, beautiful, and well-preserved blue lacquer dial features a gold speckle to emulate the aesthetic of lapis lazuli stone. The lacquer does exhibit some spider cracking, which is expected for the age of the watch, though chips or actual damage to the dial aren't present. The original gold-plated hands are also in perfect condition. ACCESSORIES None. The watch is keeping time, but the service history is unknown. A movement service can be purchased upon request.
Historical context
Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.
Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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