Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Cartier Baignoire, Circa 1990s
- Maker / attribution
- Cartier (maker)
- Date
- 1994
- Historical period
- Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
- Country of origin
- France
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Dimensions
- Case 22.5 mm
- Stock no.
- OC2535
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Oliver & Clarke (OC2535)
- Catalogue title (original)
- Cartier Baignoire - Circa 1990s w/ Box & Papers (English)
View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction
Record summary
Catalogued by Oliver & Clarke (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number OC2535), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated 1994. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 22.5 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke
The Cartier Baignoire can trace its origins to an early design by the the man himself, Louis Cartier, from 1912. That predates the more iconic Tank Louis by about 5-years and is amongst the first designs produced by the brand. Ultimately patented and officially named the 'Baignoire' in the 1950s, this is one of the Maison's longest running and oldest designs. Like so many other pieces that Cartier made in the early days, the Baignoire went on to see many variations, utilizing different sizes, movements, dials, and strap designs throughout its 100 plus-years of production. The Baignoire that we have here is an example from circa the early 1990s. This piece features a nicely sized 22.5mm x 30.5mm yellow gold oval-shaped case fitted to its original black alligator leather strap with a solid yellow gold 'Ardillon' buckle. The case remains in unpolished condition and exhibits hints of a light 'rosy' oxidation in some of the tighter areas, and normal signs of wear throughout. The strap and buckle show matching normal wear. Inside the case, that satin white dial is immaculate — seemingly-flawless — with a clean surface and crisp black printing throughout. Like so many other Cartier designs, the handset is a 'sword' design crafted out of blued-steel, which matches that sapphire cabochon crown at the 3 o'clock position. Additionally, this piece is accompanied by its inner box and booklet with guarantee papers dating to 1994. A beautiful neo-vintage package by any standards!
Historical context
Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.
Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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