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Cartier Baignoire Allongee, 1990s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Cartier (maker)
Date
1990s
Country of origin
France
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 21 mm
Stock no.
40950283
Credit line
Dealer listing, Analog/Shift (40950283)
Catalogue title (original)
Cartier Baignoire Allongee (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Analog/Shift (dealer), New York (stock number 40950283), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated 1990s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 21 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

At Analog:Shift, we’ve always been passionate about Cartier’s more obscure watches. We love the Tank and the Santos, but recognize that there are so many lesser appreciated references that deserve our attention. Take for example this Cartier Baignoire Allongee in yellow gold. The Baignoire — or ‘bathtub,’ for we Americans — is a collection that dates all the way back to 1906. Elegantly rounded with a thick, wide bezel, it still exists in the contemporary Cartier lineup as a series of svelte ladies’ watches whose proportions and executions simply ooze elegance. Once more, we see how Cartier takes inspiration from the most mundane items and elevates them to a level of refinement befitting a gentleman or lady of class. This particular Baignoire Allongee dates to the 1990s, a period when the maison designed a proliferation of unique designs. This piece comes with a full diamond case decked to the nines. Unlike most Baignoires, the Allongee is elongated, accentuating the major axis of the ellipse-shaped case. The 18K yellow gold case itself measures 21mm in width and 47mm in length, but the rounded case back allows the piece to conform to smaller wrists. While this piece is certainly more fashion-centered, it still features a manually-wound movement as arguably every elegant watch should. Featuring a silver dial with Roman indices, a blued-steel 'sword' handset and a matching cabochon crown with a diamond inset, this piece is outfitted with a signed burgundy alligator strap equipped with a correct signed 18K yellow gold deployant buckle. If you’re looking for an elegant lady’s piece from a golden era in Cartier’s storied history, this is the one to get!

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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