Bvlgari Two-Tone Stepped Case by Gérald Genta, mid 1970s

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

The 1970s marked a fascinating chapter in Bvlgari's history. Long before the Octo became the brand's contemporary design icon, the Roman jeweler looked to one of the twentieth century's greatest watch designers, Gérald Genta, to help define its emerging identity in watchmaking. The result was a series of elegant, architecturally inspired creations that blended Italian style with Swiss craftsmanship, still refreshingly modern today. This remarkable two-tone Bulgari is one of those designs. Attributed to Gérald Genta and dating to the mid-1970s, the watch embodies his unmistakable talent for transforming simple geometry into something memorable. Measuring 27mm by 30mm, its stepped case is crafted in 18k white and yellow gold, with alternating tones that emphasize the layered architecture of the bezel. The effect is sculptural without ever feeling excessive, a hallmark of Genta's best work, like the Royal Oak or Nautilus. The minimalist black dial provides the perfect counterpoint to the richly detailed case. Slender gilt baton markers radiate outward between oversized numerals at twelve and six, while the absence of unnecessary text or decoration allows the design to speak for itself. It is a study in proportion, contrast, and restraint. Powering the watch is a manually wound movement that preserves the slim profile collectors prize in pieces from this era. Completing the package is its original black lizard strap secured by the original 18K gold Bulgari buckle. The case itself remains especially well preserved, retaining its original caseback sticker and crisp hallmarks. Produced at a pivotal moment in Bulgari's history, when fine jewelry, industrial design, and haute horlogerie began to converge, this uncommon timepiece captures the creative confidence that would eventually lead to some of the most influential watch designs of the modern era. Elegant, architectural, and unmistakably Gérald Genta, it is a hidden gem from one of watchmaking's most inspired creative partnerships.