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Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas by Movado, 1970s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Bulgari (maker)
Date
1970s
Country of origin
Unrecorded in source
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
40992242
Credit line
Dealer listing, Analog/Shift (40992242)
Catalogue title (original)
Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas by Movado (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Analog/Shift (dealer), New York (stock number 40992242), this is a wristwatch by Bulgari, dated 1970s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

Bulgari Serpenti. An iconic pairing of words if ever there was one. Since Bulgari’s founding, the Italian jeweler has built a reputation upon unique designs. The Serpenti — the snake-shaped watch released to much acclaim in 1948 and still produced today — is one of the most striking timepieces in the history of modern horology. The tubogas bracelet, meanwhile, has played a significant role in the Serpenti story. Named for the gas pipe from which it takes its aesthetic inspiration, this series of interlocking, hollow metal structures has come to define much of the classic Serpenti look. Indeed, wearing one signals good taste, an appreciation for watchmaking history, and a sense of individualism. This particular Serpenti Tubgoas dates to a time long before Bulgari was capable of manufacturing its own movements, and this joined forces with some of the most prominent watchmakers of the day. Dating to the 1970s, it features a triple-wrap, 18K white gold, serpenti-tubogas bracelet fixed to a rectangular watch head with an octagonal bezel. The silvered dial — double-signed "Movado" and "Bulgari" and fitted with applied indices and a 'stick' handset — hints at the hand-wound Movado movement ticking away within. Unlike many other tubogas designs, however, the bracelet attaches conventionally at both ends of the watch head, making for a sort of hybrid timepiece with a unique character all its own. Beautifully designed, this excellent vintage piece pairs one of the world's most important jewelers to one its most prestigious watchmakers in a fit of creativity and beauty. This one, is indeed a rare bird!

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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