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Breitling Top Time, late 1960s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Breitling (maker)
Date
late 1960s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 36 mm
Stock no.
Product 487662878750
Credit line
Dealer listing, Analog/Shift (product 487662878750)
Catalogue title (original)
Breitling Top Time (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Analog/Shift (dealer), New York (stock number Product 487662878750), this is a wristwatch by Breitling, made in Switzerland, dated late 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 36 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

When it comes to collecting vintage chronographs, Breitling can be somewhat polarizing. While best known for their Navitimer line of aviation computer watches, some collectors can find their dials to be hectic and too difficult to read for daily wear. As a result, Breitling’s chronographs might not get the same appreciation as some of their contemporary counterparts. We'd like to change that, and this watch, the Top Time, is the best way we know how. In the 1960s, a few years after the Navitimer Reference 806 "Cosmonaute" orbited the planet on the wrist of Scott Carpenter, Breitling launched a line of simpler, more subdued chronographs: the Top Time. Unlike the Navitimer, the Top Time was meant for more basic tasks than timing an orbital burn. Therefore, its designs were less complex than the Navitimer, but no less appealing. As Willy Breitling said upon the Top Time’s release in 1964, “Our special models [like the Top Time] are particularly suited to the needs of young and active professionals…” The case of the Top Time was 36mm, large for the day, and was cast in a variety of materials, from gold to the stainless steel seen here. Although the dials came in a variety of colors, the “panda” variants are the most desirable. This particular Top Time is a Reference 2002-33, a cousin of which was famously featured on James Bond’s wrist in Thunderball (with a Geiger counter). The thick indices and hands suggest that this watch dates from the late 1960s or early 1970s. Breitling meant the Top Time to break the brand into a new era, and high sales ensured its popularity. In aesthetics it’s a visual snapshot of the 1960s, but remains fresh and clean. With sharp looks and an appealing style, the Top Time has become a classic, and it's not hard to see why.

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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