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Breitling Premier Ref. 788, 1950s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Breitling Premier Ref. 788, 1950s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Breitling (maker)
Date
1950s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Stock no.
Product 1321295511639
Credit line
Dealer listing, S.Song Watches (product 1321295511639)
Catalogue title (original)
Breitling Premier Ref. 788 (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by S.Song Watches (dealer), Seattle (stock number Product 1321295511639), this is a wristwatch by Breitling, made in Switzerland, dated 1950s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — S.Song Watches

Breitling is a brand steeped in history, especially during the mid-century. A true pioneer, they were one of the first to produce wrist chronographs and also the first dual button chronograph. Amongst Breitling’s selection, the term ‘Premier’ was reserved for their higher-end chronographs, and this Ref. 788 was one of them. Breitling Premiers came in many dial and case iterations. The Ref. 788 with this dial configuration is perhaps the most modern Premier that Breitling produced. Despite being a watch from the 50’s, it was ahead of its time with a clean minimalistic layout similar to watches that came in the 60’s. With a silver sunburst dial and three small chronograph registers, this is understatement at its best. Beating inside the watch is the legendary Venus 152 movement. It was one of the most prolific high-quality movements produced in the era featuring a column wheel and very attractive architecture. All in all this Ref. 788 is a very versatile watch that can be used on both casual and dressier occasions.

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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