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Breitling Pilot's Chronorgaph ref. 817, Italian Army Issued — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Breitling Pilot's Chronorgaph ref. 817, Italian Army Issued

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Breitling (maker)
Date
c. 1975
Country of origin
Italy
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 39.5 mm
Stock no.
OC3387
Credit line
Dealer listing, Oliver & Clarke (OC3387)
Catalogue title (original)
Breitling Pilot's Chronorgaph Ref. 817 - Italian Army Issued Unpolished (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Oliver & Clarke (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number OC3387), this is a wristwatch by Breitling, made in Italy, dated c. 1975. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 39.5 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Oliver & Clarke

Breitling has a long and rich history in chronographs — with an emphasis on aviation chronographs. And like so many other brands who have a watch model, or family that has become synonymous with the brand name itself, the Navitimer is just that for Breitling. As a result, the Navitimer casts a substantial shadow over all of its siblings.... even over firmly planted models like the SuperOcean and Top Time ranges. The example that we have here is chronograph Ref. 817 issued to Italian Army Helicopter Pilots in the mid-1970s. This particular example dates to circa 1975 and is offered in fantastic overall condition. The 'CP-1' case comes in at 39.5mm in diameter, vs the notable later 'CP-2' watches which measure in at 42mm in diameter. It utilized 'pump' pushers, an oversized crown, a screw-down caseback, and a solid-piece black aluminum rotating timing bezel. The case remains unpolished, with thick, symmetrical, and sharp lugs at each corner and shows what could be considered only light wear given the action that this piece was intended for. The bezel in particular is wonderfully preserved. Inside, the black dial exhibits light wear on the surface and retains evenly patinated Tritium indices. The incredibly legible white-painted 'sword' handset has aged more creamy than the dial, which is typical for this model, and presents beautifully. Powering this piece is a robust workhorse manual-winding movement by Valjoux. Last but not least, this piece comes fitted to a correct, elasticized steel bracelet that these were originally issued on — a true rarity! Produced for only a few years, it is estimated that less than 1000 unites were ever delivered and many destroyed after service. So, when one surfaces in exceptional condition like this example, it is noteworthy both to dealers and collectors alike.

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Military, pilot and travel watches

The wristwatch owes much of its adoption by men to warfare and aviation. Wristlets — small pocket watches soldered with lugs and worn on a strap — were used in colonial campaigns and became standard equipment in the First World War, with protective grilles over the crystal ('shrapnel guards'). Louis Cartier's Santos (1904), designed for the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, is often cited as an early purpose-made pilot's watch.

In the Second World War governments specified watches in detail: the German B-Uhr observation watches, the American A-11, and the British 'W.W.W.' (the 'Dirty Dozen' set of 1945). After the war, jet travel brought GMT and world-time watches, which show two or more time zones at once — Louis Cottier's world-time mechanism and the Rolex GMT-Master (1955) are examples.

What to look for

  • Military markings on the case back: broad arrow, issue numbers, 'W.W.W.', 'A.T.P.'
  • High-legibility black dials with luminous Arabic numerals; oversized crowns for gloved hands.
  • 24-hour hands and rotating 24-hour bezels or city rings on GMT/world-time watches.
  • Wire lugs on early wristlets converted from pocket watches.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug wristlets: c. 1900–1925.
  • Military specifications of the Second World War: 1939–1945.
  • GMT and world-time wristwatches: mainly after 1950.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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