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18ct yellow gold Cartier ref. 78090 Vendôme wristwatch, 1970 — view 1 of 4
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

18ct yellow gold Cartier ref. 78090 Vendôme wristwatch, 1970

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Cartier (maker)
Date
1970
Country of origin
France
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
yellow gold
Dimensions
Case 32 mm
Stock no.
G3331
Credit line
Dealer listing, Somlo Antiques (G3331)
Catalogue title (original)
18ct yellow gold Cartier ref. 78090 Vendôme wristwatch. Made 1970 (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Somlo Antiques (dealer), London (stock number G3331), this is a wristwatch by Cartier, made in France, dated 1970. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: yellow gold. Recorded dimensions: Case 32 mm. The record is illustrated with 4 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Somlo Antiques

Cartier is a brand that has forever been associated with Opulence, class and sophistication. The company was founded by Louis-François Cartier in 1847 as an ‘ Atelier de Haute Joaillerie ’ after he took over the workshop of his Master, Adolphe Picard. He was succeeded in 1874 by his own son Alfred who continued to uphold the high standards set down by his father. It was not until 25 years later, in 1899 when Alfred’s three sons took over the business and transformed Cartier into a global luxury brand, opening boutiques in London and New York. Cartier’s dalliance with horology started in 1904 when Louis Cartier befriended the aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont. Santos-Dumont complained about the difficulties of checking a pocket watch mid-flight, so Louis Cartier designed a wristwatch with a distinctive flat profile that would henceforth be known as the Cartier Santos-Dumont. This was the first men’s wristwatch made by Cartier and established the foundation of every watch they have produced to this day. It is considered by many to be the pioneer of modern wristwatch design. T akes on classics such as the Tank and Santos Dumont were followed by new designs, including pieces like the Ellipse, the Tonneau, the Ceinture, and more. Today vintage Cartier collectors have the choice of different designs and models from London, Paris and New York houses. Brand: Cartier Made: 1970's Model: Vendôme Reference: 78090 Calibre: 2512 Movement: Manual Material: 18ct yellow gold Features/complications: Stepped case and sapphire cabochon crown Dial: Off-white dial with inner minute track featuring black printed Roman numeral hour markers and blue steeled sword shaped hands Case dimensions: 32mm Bracelet/strap: Leather strap Accessories: 18ct yellow gold deployant buckle SKU: 3331

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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