Unsigned watch, circa 1890 — view 1 of 2
View 1 of 2 · Image: Antiquorum Genève SA · original image source

Pocket Watches · Watch

Unsigned watch, circa 1890

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Unsigned (brand / maker)
Date
circa 1890
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Watch
Dimensions
; weight 43 gr.
Lot
Lot 381-178
Credit line
Auction lot record: LOT 178
Catalogue title (original)
UNSIGNED, SWITZERLAND, FORM-WATCH IN THE SHAPE OF A COLEOPTEROUS BEETLE DIAMOND-SET AND RUBY-SET, GOLD AND ENAMEL

View the source record (auction lot) ↗

Record summary

Catalogued by Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva (lot Lot 381-178), this is a watch by Unsigned, made in Switzerland, dated circa 1890. The Atlas places it in the Industrial Revolution period (1850 – 1900) of its Pocket Watches collection. Recorded dimensions: ; weight 43 gr. The record is illustrated with 2 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Antiquorum catalogue description

A rare and fine, 18k yellow gold, enamel, diamond-set and ruby-set, manual wind keyless-winding, form-watch in the shape of a blue coleopterous beetle with concealed dial (small circular white enamel dial. Blue painted Arabic numerals for the hours, red for the number 12. Gold spade hands).

Lot specifications (Antiquorum)

Caliber: 24 x 20 mm., oval-shaped, gilded brass, with going barrel, cylinder escapement, monometallic balance (gilded brass) and blued steel flat hairspring

Historical context

Industrial Revolution (1850 – 1900)

American interchangeable-parts manufacture; railroad time standards; Swiss and German factory systems.

Machine production with interchangeable parts, pioneered by Waltham (1850s) and adopted by Elgin, Longines, Omega and others, made reliable lever watches widely affordable. Keyless winding became standard, railroad watch standards were introduced (1890s), and Swiss and American industries competed globally.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Precision & Scientific Horology

Atlas type guide

Pocket watches

The pocket watch was the dominant personal timekeeper from the late seventeenth century until the First World War. Its development tracks the history of the escapement: verge watches with fusees until the late eighteenth century; Thomas Mudge's lever escapement (c. 1755) and the cylinder escapement popularised by George Graham and later by Swiss makers; and the Swiss and English lever watches of the nineteenth century. Lépine's bar-bridge calibre and keyless winding made watches thinner and easier to use.

Industrialisation transformed the trade: American factories such as Waltham (from 1850) and Elgin produced interchangeable parts by machine, and Swiss makers responded with their own mechanisation after the 1876 Philadelphia Exhibition. By 1900 a reliable watch was affordable to millions; the finest makers continued to produce complications and precision watches.

What to look for

  • The escapement: verge (crown wheel), cylinder, duplex, English or Swiss lever.
  • Key winding (a square arbor in dial or back) or keyless crown winding.
  • Signatures and serial numbers on the movement, dial and inside case back.
  • Hallmarks, case maker's marks and gold or silver standards stamped in the case.
  • Dial material: enamel, silver, gold, later printed metal.

Dating clues

  • Verge watches dominate before c. 1800; cylinder watches c. 1770–1900; lever watches after c. 1820.
  • Keyless winding: increasingly common after c. 1860.
  • Manufacturer serial number lists exist for Waltham, Elgin, Longines, Omega, Patek Philippe and others.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Verge escapementDetached lever escapementFuseeIdentification Centre

Related records