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Pocket Watches · Watch

Unsigned watch, circa 1860

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Unsigned (brand / maker)
Date
circa 1860
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Watch
Dimensions
37 X 21 mm. ; weight 25 gr.
Lot
Lot 390-127
Credit line
Auction lot record: LOT 127
Catalogue title (original)
UNSIGNED, SWITZERLAND, PADLOCK PENDANT WATCH, GOLD AND ENAMEL

View the source record (auction lot) ↗

Record summary

Catalogued by Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva (lot Lot 390-127), this is a watch by Unsigned, made in Switzerland, dated circa 1860. The Atlas places it in the Industrial Revolution period (1850 – 1900) of its Pocket Watches collection. Recorded dimensions: 37 X 21 mm. ; weight 25 gr. The record is illustrated with 3 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Antiquorum catalogue description

A very fine and rare, 18k gold and enamel, manual wind watch in the form of a padlock, with polished and engraved case. Sliding panel over the dial decorated with painted enamel flowers. Hinged case back with an applied gold cartouche, the interior fitted with a glazed compartment for a photograph and hinged gold strut. Hinged gold cuvette. White enamel dial with painted black radial Roman numerals and outer minute divisions. Blued steel hands.

Lot specifications (Antiquorum)

Caliber: Shield-shaped, gilt brass bar calibre, 6 jewels, cylinder escapement, plain gilt three-arm balance, flat balance spring, index regulator.

Historical context

Industrial Revolution (1850 – 1900)

American interchangeable-parts manufacture; railroad time standards; Swiss and German factory systems.

Machine production with interchangeable parts, pioneered by Waltham (1850s) and adopted by Elgin, Longines, Omega and others, made reliable lever watches widely affordable. Keyless winding became standard, railroad watch standards were introduced (1890s), and Swiss and American industries competed globally.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Precision & Scientific Horology

Atlas type guide

Early spring-driven watches

Portable spring-driven timepieces appeared in southern Germany, France and Italy in the early sixteenth century; Peter Henlein of Nuremberg is traditionally credited, although the historical record is complex. These early watches were worn as pendants or carried, had iron or brass movements with a verge escapement and a foliot or small balance, and used a stackfreed or fusee to equalise spring force. They indicated hours only and were notoriously inaccurate.

From the later sixteenth century watches were made in Blois, Paris, Geneva, London and Augsburg in oval, octagonal, cruciform, skull and other 'form' cases of rock crystal, gilt brass, silver and enamel. They were jewellery and status objects as much as timekeepers.

What to look for

  • A single hour hand and often a touch-pin hour ring for feeling the time.
  • Stackfreed (a cam and spring) instead of a fusee on German watches.
  • Pierced and engraved cocks over the balance, fine gut fusee lines.
  • Rock-crystal, enamelled or engraved form cases.

Dating clues

  • Drum-shaped German watches: c. 1530–1580.
  • Oval and form watches: c. 1580–1650.
  • Before c. 1675 there is no balance spring; watches can vary by many minutes a day.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Verge escapementFuseeFoliotThe Melanchthon watch

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