Unsigned pendant watch, circa 1910s — view 1 of 3
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Pocket Watches · Pendant watch

Unsigned pendant watch, circa 1910s

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Unsigned (brand / maker)
Date
circa 1910s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Pendant watch
Materials / technique
18k yellow gold
Dimensions
27mm ; weight 22.7g
Lot
Lot 389-130
Credit line
Auction lot record: LOT 130
Catalogue title (original)
UNSIGNED, SWISS, ART NOUVEAU FLORAL PENDANT WATCH, 18K YELLOW GOLD AND ENAMEL

View the source record (auction lot) ↗

Record summary

Catalogued by Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva (lot Lot 389-130), this is a pendant watch by Unsigned, made in Switzerland, dated circa 1910s. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: 18k yellow gold. Recorded dimensions: 27mm ; weight 22.7g. The record is illustrated with 3 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Antiquorum catalogue description

EUR 700 - 1,350 / CHF 650 - 1,300 / USD 800 - 1,550 / JPY 120,000 - 238,000 A very fine and unusual, 18k yellow gold keyless pendant watch with painted on enamel floral decoration. It features a white enamel dial and caseback decorated with sculpted gold various-color enamel irises and waterlilies.

Lot specifications (Antiquorum)

Caliber: 22 mm, matte gilt, 18 jewels, wolf's tooth winding, straight-line moustache lever escapement, plain three arm balance, blued steel flat balance spring, index regulator.; Case No.: 18727; Signature: Case stamped with S.G. maker's mark

Historical context

Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)

The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.

The pocket watch reached technical maturity and then began to give way to the wristwatch after the First World War. Complicated watches for collectors such as Henry Graves Jr. and James Ward Packard, railroad watches, and slim Art Deco dress watches are characteristic.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution

Atlas type guide

Early spring-driven watches

Portable spring-driven timepieces appeared in southern Germany, France and Italy in the early sixteenth century; Peter Henlein of Nuremberg is traditionally credited, although the historical record is complex. These early watches were worn as pendants or carried, had iron or brass movements with a verge escapement and a foliot or small balance, and used a stackfreed or fusee to equalise spring force. They indicated hours only and were notoriously inaccurate.

From the later sixteenth century watches were made in Blois, Paris, Geneva, London and Augsburg in oval, octagonal, cruciform, skull and other 'form' cases of rock crystal, gilt brass, silver and enamel. They were jewellery and status objects as much as timekeepers.

What to look for

  • A single hour hand and often a touch-pin hour ring for feeling the time.
  • Stackfreed (a cam and spring) instead of a fusee on German watches.
  • Pierced and engraved cocks over the balance, fine gut fusee lines.
  • Rock-crystal, enamelled or engraved form cases.

Dating clues

  • Drum-shaped German watches: c. 1530–1580.
  • Oval and form watches: c. 1580–1650.
  • Before c. 1675 there is no balance spring; watches can vary by many minutes a day.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Verge escapementFuseeFoliotThe Melanchthon watch

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