
Pocket Watches · Pendant watch
Unsigned pendant watch, circa 1880s
- Maker / attribution
- Unsigned (brand / maker)
- Date
- circa 1880s
- Historical period
- Industrial Revolution (1850 – 1900)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Pendant watch
- Materials / technique
- 18k yellow gold
- Dimensions
- 26mm ; weight 21.5g
- Auction house
- Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
- Lot
- Lot 389-131
- Credit line
- Auction lot record: LOT 131
- Catalogue title (original)
- UNSIGNED, SWISS, ART NOUVEAU FLORAL PENDANT WATCH, DIAMOND, 18K YELLOW GOLD AND ENAMEL
Record summary
Catalogued by Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva (lot Lot 389-131), this is a pendant watch by Unsigned, made in Switzerland, dated circa 1880s. The Atlas places it in the Industrial Revolution period (1850 – 1900) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: 18k yellow gold. Recorded dimensions: 26mm ; weight 21.5g. The record is illustrated with 4 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Antiquorum catalogue description
EUR 700 - 1,350 / CHF 650 - 1,300 / USD 800 - 1,550 / JPY 120,000 - 238,000 A very fine and unusual, 18k yellow gold keyless pendant watch in white enamel dial. The caseback pierced and chased with leaves and chrysanthemums over a hinged gold cuvette with translucent blue enamel over guilloche.
Lot specifications (Antiquorum)
Caliber: 21 mm, brushed gilt, 9 jewels, cylinder escapement, blued steel Breguet balance spring, index regulator.; Case No.: 26144
Historical context
Industrial Revolution (1850 – 1900)
American interchangeable-parts manufacture; railroad time standards; Swiss and German factory systems.
Machine production with interchangeable parts, pioneered by Waltham (1850s) and adopted by Elgin, Longines, Omega and others, made reliable lever watches widely affordable. Keyless winding became standard, railroad watch standards were introduced (1890s), and Swiss and American industries competed globally.
Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Precision & Scientific Horology
Atlas type guide
Early spring-driven watches
Portable spring-driven timepieces appeared in southern Germany, France and Italy in the early sixteenth century; Peter Henlein of Nuremberg is traditionally credited, although the historical record is complex. These early watches were worn as pendants or carried, had iron or brass movements with a verge escapement and a foliot or small balance, and used a stackfreed or fusee to equalise spring force. They indicated hours only and were notoriously inaccurate.
From the later sixteenth century watches were made in Blois, Paris, Geneva, London and Augsburg in oval, octagonal, cruciform, skull and other 'form' cases of rock crystal, gilt brass, silver and enamel. They were jewellery and status objects as much as timekeepers.
What to look for
- A single hour hand and often a touch-pin hour ring for feeling the time.
- Stackfreed (a cam and spring) instead of a fusee on German watches.
- Pierced and engraved cocks over the balance, fine gut fusee lines.
- Rock-crystal, enamelled or engraved form cases.
Dating clues
- Drum-shaped German watches: c. 1530–1580.
- Oval and form watches: c. 1580–1650.
- Before c. 1675 there is no balance spring; watches can vary by many minutes a day.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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