Watch by George Etherington, England, 1704-1705 — view 1 of 4
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Pocket Watches · Watch

Watch by George Etherington, England, 1704-1705

DocumentedDocumented from the holding institution's catalogue record.
Maker / attribution
George Etherington (movement); James Delander (maker)
Date
1704-1705
Country of origin
England
Place
London
Object type
Watch
Materials / technique
Pierced, engraved and chased gold set with table-cut diamonds and emeralds
Dimensions
Height: 6.2 cm; Width: 4.6 cm; Depth: 3.2 cm; Height: 7.1 cm (with suspension loop)
Accession / object no.
M.19-1934
Credit line
Given by Mr Edmund A. Phillips

View the source record ↗

Record summary

Held and catalogued by Victoria and Albert Museum, London (object number M.19-1934), this is a watch by George Etherington, made in London, England, dated 1704-1705. The Atlas places it in the Early Modern Horology period (1600 – 1750) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: Pierced, engraved and chased gold set with table-cut diamonds and emeralds. Recorded dimensions: Height: 6.2 cm; Width: 4.6 cm; Depth: 3.2 cm; Height: 7.1 cm (with suspension loop). The record is illustrated with 4 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

V&A — Physical description

Pierced, engraved and chased gold watch, the dial set with table-cut diamonds and emeralds, signed 'Geo. Etherington, London', with casemaker's mark 'ID' attributed to James Delander, with London hallmarks for 1704-1705.

V&A — Object history

Said to have belonged to the Empress Elizabeth of Russia. The watch would have originally had a decorated pair case.

Inscriptions & marks

'Geo. Etherington, London'; 'ID'; marks

Historical context

Early Modern Horology (1600 – 1750)

Huygens' pendulum and balance spring transform accuracy; English makers develop the anchor and deadbeat escapements.

The balance spring (c. 1675) improved watches dramatically and introduced the minute hand. English pair-cased verge watches with pierced balance cocks and French oignons were typical; enamel painting at Blois and Geneva, and the repeating watch (1680s), made watches objects of great refinement.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Renaissance Horology

Atlas type guide

Pocket watches

The pocket watch was the dominant personal timekeeper from the late seventeenth century until the First World War. Its development tracks the history of the escapement: verge watches with fusees until the late eighteenth century; Thomas Mudge's lever escapement (c. 1755) and the cylinder escapement popularised by George Graham and later by Swiss makers; and the Swiss and English lever watches of the nineteenth century. Lépine's bar-bridge calibre and keyless winding made watches thinner and easier to use.

Industrialisation transformed the trade: American factories such as Waltham (from 1850) and Elgin produced interchangeable parts by machine, and Swiss makers responded with their own mechanisation after the 1876 Philadelphia Exhibition. By 1900 a reliable watch was affordable to millions; the finest makers continued to produce complications and precision watches.

What to look for

  • The escapement: verge (crown wheel), cylinder, duplex, English or Swiss lever.
  • Key winding (a square arbor in dial or back) or keyless crown winding.
  • Signatures and serial numbers on the movement, dial and inside case back.
  • Hallmarks, case maker's marks and gold or silver standards stamped in the case.
  • Dial material: enamel, silver, gold, later printed metal.

Dating clues

  • Verge watches dominate before c. 1800; cylinder watches c. 1770–1900; lever watches after c. 1820.
  • Keyless winding: increasingly common after c. 1860.
  • Manufacturer serial number lists exist for Waltham, Elgin, Longines, Omega, Patek Philippe and others.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Verge escapementDetached lever escapementFuseeIdentification Centre

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