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Pocket Watches · Watch

Jewellery, England

DocumentedDocumented from the holding institution's catalogue record.
Maker / attribution
Edward East (maker)
Date
ca. 1635
Country of origin
England
Place
London
Object type
Watch
Materials / technique
Rock crystal case, with an engraved gilt-brass dial; the pendant has been replaced
Dimensions
Height: 5.1 cm; Width: 3 cm; Depth: 2.3 cm
Accession / object no.
M.360-1927
Credit line
Given by Miss E. M. Earle

View the source record ↗

Record summary

Held and catalogued by Victoria and Albert Museum, London (object number M.360-1927), this is a watch by Edward East, made in London, England, dated ca. 1635. The Atlas places it in the Early Modern Horology period (1600 – 1750) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: Rock crystal case, with an engraved gilt-brass dial; the pendant has been replaced. Recorded dimensions: Height: 5.1 cm; Width: 3 cm; Depth: 2.3 cm. The record is illustrated with 4 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

V&A — Summary

Object Type The movement has a verge escapement and a gut-driven fusee, which regulated the power of the mainspring. The two plates of the movement are held between baluster pillars. The hour ring is in silver, the figures inlaid with black enamel. The case is in the shape of a gourd made of rock crystal mounted in gilt brass. People Edward East was apprenticed to Richard Rogers of the Goldsmiths' Company in 1618, and became a Freeman in 1627. In 1632 he was made one of the first Assistants of the Clockmakers' Company which had been founded the year before. He was Master of the Company in 1645 and 1653. In 1660 he was appointed Chief Clockmaker to the king. He seems to have operated on a large scale and to have had Royalist and Roman Catholic connections. Edward East's will suggests that he was resident in Hampton, Middlesex, in 1688, though his business continued in London. His will was proved in February 1697 but the exact date of his death is not known. Subjects Depicted The dial is engraved inside the hour ring with the birth of Jesus. Above the hour ring is a nude figure of Time with his traditional symbols of a scythe and an hour glass.

V&A — Physical description

Gilt-brass dial engraved with the Nativity and a figure of Time

V&A — Object history

Made in London by Edward East (born at Southill, Bedfordshire, 1602, died in London, about 1697)

V&A gallery label

British Galleries: Watches were expensive accessories in the 17th century. They took many forms ranging from skulls to shells; this case is in the form of a gourd. At this time watches commonly only had one hand.

V&A gallery label

Treasures of the Royal Courts: Tudors, Stuarts and the Russian Tsars label text: Watch in the form of a gourd About 1635 This watch was made by Edward East, a preeminent London watchmaker. East supplied Charles I with a watch in the year of his execution. He was appointed Chief Clockmaker to Charles II in 1660. During the 17th century London clockmakers achieved an international reputation. London Movement by Edward East Rock crystal, gilded and engraved brass, steel, silver hour ring and enamelled numerals; gut-driven fusee, verge escapement Given by Miss Eva M. Earle of Great Yeldham, Essex V&A M.360-1927

Historical context

Early Modern Horology (1600 – 1750)

Huygens' pendulum and balance spring transform accuracy; English makers develop the anchor and deadbeat escapements.

The balance spring (c. 1675) improved watches dramatically and introduced the minute hand. English pair-cased verge watches with pierced balance cocks and French oignons were typical; enamel painting at Blois and Geneva, and the repeating watch (1680s), made watches objects of great refinement.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Renaissance Horology

Atlas type guide

Pocket watches

The pocket watch was the dominant personal timekeeper from the late seventeenth century until the First World War. Its development tracks the history of the escapement: verge watches with fusees until the late eighteenth century; Thomas Mudge's lever escapement (c. 1755) and the cylinder escapement popularised by George Graham and later by Swiss makers; and the Swiss and English lever watches of the nineteenth century. Lépine's bar-bridge calibre and keyless winding made watches thinner and easier to use.

Industrialisation transformed the trade: American factories such as Waltham (from 1850) and Elgin produced interchangeable parts by machine, and Swiss makers responded with their own mechanisation after the 1876 Philadelphia Exhibition. By 1900 a reliable watch was affordable to millions; the finest makers continued to produce complications and precision watches.

What to look for

  • The escapement: verge (crown wheel), cylinder, duplex, English or Swiss lever.
  • Key winding (a square arbor in dial or back) or keyless crown winding.
  • Signatures and serial numbers on the movement, dial and inside case back.
  • Hallmarks, case maker's marks and gold or silver standards stamped in the case.
  • Dial material: enamel, silver, gold, later printed metal.

Dating clues

  • Verge watches dominate before c. 1800; cylinder watches c. 1770–1900; lever watches after c. 1820.
  • Keyless winding: increasingly common after c. 1860.
  • Manufacturer serial number lists exist for Waltham, Elgin, Longines, Omega, Patek Philippe and others.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Detached lever escapementIdentification Centre

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