Rolex "red" Submariner, ref. 1680, 1969 — view 1 of 3
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Rolex "red" Submariner, ref. 1680, 1969

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Rolex (brand / maker)
Date
1969
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
stainless steel
Dimensions
39
Lot
Lot 386-204
Credit line
Auction lot record: LOT 204
Catalogue title (original)
ROLEX, SWITZERLAND, REF. 1680, "RED" SUBMARINER, TROPICAL METER FIRST DIAL, STAINLESS STEEL

View the source record (auction lot) ↗

Record summary

Catalogued by Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva (lot Lot 386-204), this is a wristwatch by Rolex, made in Switzerland, dated 1969. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: stainless steel. Recorded dimensions: 39. The record is illustrated with 3 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Antiquorum catalogue description

A fine, rare and attractive, early, stainless steel, self winding diver's wristwatch with date and tropical dial

Lot specifications (Antiquorum)

Caliber: 1570, 26 jewels; Case No.: 2362175; Bracelet: stainless steel Rolex folded bracelet (9315/580) with deployant clasp, approx. overall length 175 mm.; Signature: dial, case and movement

Provenance

Property of a Japanese collector

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Dive and water-resistant watches

Keeping water and dust out of a wristwatch was a long-standing challenge. Rolex's screw-down Oyster case (1926) and Omega's Marine (1932) were landmarks; in the early 1950s Blancpain's Fifty Fathoms and Rolex's Submariner defined the professional dive watch with rotating bezels for timing dives, luminous dials and high water resistance. The ISO 6425 standard (1982) later codified what a 'diver's watch' must do.

Dive watches became icons of post-war design and exploration, and their evolution — helium escape valves, ceramic bezels, saturation-diving depth ratings — records the history of underwater work.

What to look for

  • Unidirectional or bidirectional rotating bezel with minute markings.
  • Screw-down crown and case back; depth rating printed on the dial.
  • Luminous hands and markers (radium before c. 1960, tritium c. 1960–1998, then Super-LumiNova).
  • Reference numbers on the case between the lugs or inside the back.

Dating clues

  • Screw-down Oyster cases: from 1926.
  • Professional dive watches: from 1953.
  • Tritium 'T' marks on dials: c. 1960–1998.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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