Limited edition watch designed by Eta relating to David Bowie's Serious Moonlight live tour, 1991 — view 1 of 4
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Pocket Watches · Watch

Limited edition watch designed by Eta relating to David Bowie's Serious Moonlight live tour, 1991

DocumentedDocumented from the holding institution's catalogue record.
Maker / attribution
ETA (maker)
Date
1991
Country of origin
Switzerland
Place
Switzerland
Object type
Watch
Materials / technique
Machine-cut, moulded and engraved plastic, metal and stainless steel
Dimensions
Length: 23.2 cm; Diameter: 3.5 cm (Watchface)
Accession / object no.
LOAN:AMERICASFOUNDATION.1375-2024
Credit line
Lent by the V&A Americas Foundation through the generosity of Jones/Tintoretto Entertainment Company LLC

View the source record ↗

Record summary

Held and catalogued by Victoria and Albert Museum, London (object number LOAN:AMERICASFOUNDATION.1375-2024), this is a watch by ETA, made in Switzerland, dated 1991. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: Machine-cut, moulded and engraved plastic, metal and stainless steel. Recorded dimensions: Length: 23.2 cm; Diameter: 3.5 cm (Watchface). The record is illustrated with 4 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

V&A — Physical description

Limited edition watch designed by Eta relating to David Bowie's Serious Moonlight live tour, 1991. A grey plastic wristwatch with metal buckle fastening and stainless steel reverse face. The watchface is printed with a photograph of David Bowie performing on the Serious Moonlight live tour in 1983, and is enscribed 'GREETINGS FOR THE ESSEN CONVENTION'. There is a facsimilie David Bowie signature printed underneath on the watch face in white, dated 1983.

Inscriptions & marks

12 6; 19; GREETINGS FOR THE ESSEN CONVENTION; BOWIE '83; STAINLESS STEELBACK WATER RESISTANT 3 ATM SWISS MADE 7730

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Collectors' interest in antique pocket watches grew, and a few houses made new pocket watches with grand complications as technical showpieces.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Pocket watches

The pocket watch was the dominant personal timekeeper from the late seventeenth century until the First World War. Its development tracks the history of the escapement: verge watches with fusees until the late eighteenth century; Thomas Mudge's lever escapement (c. 1755) and the cylinder escapement popularised by George Graham and later by Swiss makers; and the Swiss and English lever watches of the nineteenth century. Lépine's bar-bridge calibre and keyless winding made watches thinner and easier to use.

Industrialisation transformed the trade: American factories such as Waltham (from 1850) and Elgin produced interchangeable parts by machine, and Swiss makers responded with their own mechanisation after the 1876 Philadelphia Exhibition. By 1900 a reliable watch was affordable to millions; the finest makers continued to produce complications and precision watches.

What to look for

  • The escapement: verge (crown wheel), cylinder, duplex, English or Swiss lever.
  • Key winding (a square arbor in dial or back) or keyless crown winding.
  • Signatures and serial numbers on the movement, dial and inside case back.
  • Hallmarks, case maker's marks and gold or silver standards stamped in the case.
  • Dial material: enamel, silver, gold, later printed metal.

Dating clues

  • Verge watches dominate before c. 1800; cylinder watches c. 1770–1900; lever watches after c. 1820.
  • Keyless winding: increasingly common after c. 1860.
  • Manufacturer serial number lists exist for Waltham, Elgin, Longines, Omega, Patek Philippe and others.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Verge escapementDetached lever escapementFuseeIdentification Centre

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