Gold, ivory, enamel pendent watch with ribbon fob, made by Verger Frères for Lacloche Frères, Paris, ca. 1927

V&A — Summary

This elegant watch was probably made to be worn by a man with the watch inside his waistcoat pocket and the black ribbon fob hanging down in front. The contrast between the cream ivory and the black ribbon and black enamel, and the angular shape of the gold panels and the ivory panel on the fob, make the watch a strong Art Deco statement. Lacloche Frères, founded in Madrid in 1875, became one of the most fashionable jewellery houses in Paris. Verger Frères, whose mark is on the gold work, was founded in 1872. The firm passed to his two sons, Georges and Henri. It supplied work to the leading jewellers. For a bracelet made for Chaumet, see M.122-2007. The figure scenes are in the style of Ancient Greek vases.

V&A — Physical description

Slim watch with ivory case inset on the back with a square gold plaque with rounded corners enclosing a scene of two Ancient Greek figues, a soldier seizing a girl by the hair with his left hand while holding a sword above his head with his right hand. An altar stands to the right. Engraved details are inlaid in black enamel. The gold figures are cut out and stand in relief from a black ground. The dial is engine-turned and silvered with black arabic numbers and blued steel hand. Jewelled nickel lever movement. Black enamelled winding knob. The watch is suspended by a gold chain which runs around the case, the two ends passing through an ivory bead above the watch before separating to run down the sides of a black silk ribbon fob until they meet a gold mounted ivory plaque centred by a gold plaque of two Ancient Greek figures, a priestess holding a ewer standing beside a warrior with shield and spear on his left arm and holding in his right hand a vessel from which he may be about to make a libation. The gold chain terminates on each side of the ribbon fob in ivory beads.

V&A — Object history

Sotheby's, London, 11 July 2013, lot 147. A similar watch by Lacloche with ribbon fob in its original case, but with different scenes on the plaques, was sold at Sotheby's, New York, 4 December 2012, lot 44. The latter is illustrated in J. Price, Masterpieces of French Jewelry (Philadelphia, 2006), page 78.