Cartier “couteau” (Knife-Edge), circa 1920 — view 1 of 3
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Pocket Watches · Watch

Cartier “couteau” (Knife-Edge), circa 1920

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Cartier (brand / maker)
Date
circa 1920
Country of origin
France
Object type
Watch
Materials / technique
18k yellow gold
Dimensions
46 mm. ; weight 46 gr.
Lot
Lot 390-186
Credit line
Auction lot record: LOT 186
Catalogue title (original)
CARTIER, “COUTEAU” (KNIFE-EDGE), ART DECO DRESS-WATCH, 18K YELLOW GOLD

View the source record (auction lot) ↗

Record summary

Catalogued by Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva (lot Lot 390-186), this is a watch by Cartier, made in France, dated circa 1920. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: 18k yellow gold. Recorded dimensions: 46 mm. ; weight 46 gr. The record is illustrated with 3 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Antiquorum catalogue description

A fine, 18k yellow gold, manual wind open-face, keyless-winding, “couteau” (knife-edge), extra-thin, Art Deco dress-watch, gold colour dial with suspended Arabic numerals with subsidiary seconds at 6. Blue steel Breguet hands.

Lot specifications (Antiquorum)

Caliber: 37 mm., 19 jewels, rhodium plated, straight-line lever escapement, cut bimetallic compensation balance, blued steel flat balance-spring, index regulator.; Case No.: 2577; Signature: Dial, case numbered

Historical context

Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)

The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.

The pocket watch reached technical maturity and then began to give way to the wristwatch after the First World War. Complicated watches for collectors such as Henry Graves Jr. and James Ward Packard, railroad watches, and slim Art Deco dress watches are characteristic.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution

Atlas type guide

Pocket watches

The pocket watch was the dominant personal timekeeper from the late seventeenth century until the First World War. Its development tracks the history of the escapement: verge watches with fusees until the late eighteenth century; Thomas Mudge's lever escapement (c. 1755) and the cylinder escapement popularised by George Graham and later by Swiss makers; and the Swiss and English lever watches of the nineteenth century. Lépine's bar-bridge calibre and keyless winding made watches thinner and easier to use.

Industrialisation transformed the trade: American factories such as Waltham (from 1850) and Elgin produced interchangeable parts by machine, and Swiss makers responded with their own mechanisation after the 1876 Philadelphia Exhibition. By 1900 a reliable watch was affordable to millions; the finest makers continued to produce complications and precision watches.

What to look for

  • The escapement: verge (crown wheel), cylinder, duplex, English or Swiss lever.
  • Key winding (a square arbor in dial or back) or keyless crown winding.
  • Signatures and serial numbers on the movement, dial and inside case back.
  • Hallmarks, case maker's marks and gold or silver standards stamped in the case.
  • Dial material: enamel, silver, gold, later printed metal.

Dating clues

  • Verge watches dominate before c. 1800; cylinder watches c. 1770–1900; lever watches after c. 1820.
  • Keyless winding: increasingly common after c. 1860.
  • Manufacturer serial number lists exist for Waltham, Elgin, Longines, Omega, Patek Philippe and others.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Verge escapementFuseeIdentification Centre

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