Woman's watch, gold with diamonds set in platinum. Made for Kutchinsky, London by Chopard et Cie. Switzerland, 1973 — view 1 of 2
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Pocket Watches · Watch

Woman's watch, gold with diamonds set in platinum. Made for Kutchinsky, London by Chopard et Cie. Switzerland, 1973

DocumentedDocumented from the holding institution's catalogue record.
Maker / attribution
Chopard et Cie (maker); Kutchinsky (retailers)
Date
1973
Country of origin
Switzerland
Place
Geneva
Object type
Watch
Materials / technique
Gold set with diamonds
Dimensions
Weight: 57.43 g; Length: 161 mm; Height: 9 mm; Width: 25 mm
Accession / object no.
M.232-2007
Credit line
The John Carrow Bequest

View the source record ↗

Record summary

Held and catalogued by Victoria and Albert Museum, London (object number M.232-2007), this is a watch by Chopard et Cie, made in Geneva, Switzerland, dated 1973. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: Gold set with diamonds. Recorded dimensions: Weight: 57.43 g; Length: 161 mm; Height: 9 mm; Width: 25 mm. The record is illustrated with 2 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

V&A — Summary

This elegant lady's watch was made by Chopard, founded in Switzerland in 1860, for the London jeweller Kutchinsky. Joseph Kutchinsky (1914-2000) moved the family firm from Commercial Road in London's East End to Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, not far from Harrod's. The firm was bought by Moussaieff Jewellers Ltd. in 1991, after which Mr Kutchinsky retired.

V&A — Physical description

Eighteen carat yellow gold integrated Milanese linked tapering bracelet bearing a Florentine finish. Plain gold face set in an asymmetrical elliptical gold frame, at the top of which is a small convex rectangular panel set with 12 round eight-cut diamonds in white gold. Movement- Swiss 17 jewelled lever movement.

V&A — Production note

Marked for Geneva, Switzerland. Import marks for London, 1973.

Inscriptions & marks

London import marks for 1973, sponsor's mark KLD for Kutchinsky Ltd; Gold mark for Geneva; LUC incuse in a modified rectangular punch 0.750 in a rectangular punch; 51 565 5031 1; C2909

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz pocket watches and inexpensive novelty watches appeared, while traditional mechanical pocket watches survived mainly as collectibles and gifts.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Pocket watches

The pocket watch was the dominant personal timekeeper from the late seventeenth century until the First World War. Its development tracks the history of the escapement: verge watches with fusees until the late eighteenth century; Thomas Mudge's lever escapement (c. 1755) and the cylinder escapement popularised by George Graham and later by Swiss makers; and the Swiss and English lever watches of the nineteenth century. Lépine's bar-bridge calibre and keyless winding made watches thinner and easier to use.

Industrialisation transformed the trade: American factories such as Waltham (from 1850) and Elgin produced interchangeable parts by machine, and Swiss makers responded with their own mechanisation after the 1876 Philadelphia Exhibition. By 1900 a reliable watch was affordable to millions; the finest makers continued to produce complications and precision watches.

What to look for

  • The escapement: verge (crown wheel), cylinder, duplex, English or Swiss lever.
  • Key winding (a square arbor in dial or back) or keyless crown winding.
  • Signatures and serial numbers on the movement, dial and inside case back.
  • Hallmarks, case maker's marks and gold or silver standards stamped in the case.
  • Dial material: enamel, silver, gold, later printed metal.

Dating clues

  • Verge watches dominate before c. 1800; cylinder watches c. 1770–1900; lever watches after c. 1820.
  • Keyless winding: increasingly common after c. 1860.
  • Manufacturer serial number lists exist for Waltham, Elgin, Longines, Omega, Patek Philippe and others.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Verge escapementFuseeIdentification Centre

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