
Pocket Watches · Watch
Watch by R. Dieu, ca. 1590
- Maker / attribution
- R. Dieu (Maker); Reinhold Vasters (Artist)
- Date
- ca. 1590
- Historical period
- Renaissance Horology (1400 – 1600)
- Country of origin
- Unrecorded in source
- Object type
- Watch
- Materials / technique
- Rock-crystal, enameled gold
- Dimensions
- 2-3/4 x 1-7/8 in. (7.0 x 4.8 cm)
- Holding institution
- The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
- Accession / object no.
- 17.190.1409
- Credit line
- Gift of J. Pierpont Morgan, 1917
- Catalogue title (original)
- Watch
Record summary
Held and catalogued by The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York (object number 17.190.1409), this is a watch by R. Dieu, dated ca. 1590. The Atlas places it in the Renaissance Horology period (1400 – 1600) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: Rock-crystal, enameled gold. Recorded dimensions: 2-3/4 x 1-7/8 in. (7.0 x 4.8 cm). The record is illustrated with 1 photograph.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
The source record does not include a narrative description. The structured fields above are reproduced from it.
Historical context
Renaissance Horology (1400 – 1600)
Spring power makes clocks portable; Nuremberg and Augsburg produce the first watches; the Prague Orloj is built.
The first portable spring-driven timepieces were made in southern Germany, France and Italy. They had iron or brass verge movements with a foliot or small balance and a stackfreed or fusee, indicated hours only, and were worn as pendants — luxury objects more than precise instruments.
Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Medieval Period
Atlas type guide
Early spring-driven watches
Portable spring-driven timepieces appeared in southern Germany, France and Italy in the early sixteenth century; Peter Henlein of Nuremberg is traditionally credited, although the historical record is complex. These early watches were worn as pendants or carried, had iron or brass movements with a verge escapement and a foliot or small balance, and used a stackfreed or fusee to equalise spring force. They indicated hours only and were notoriously inaccurate.
From the later sixteenth century watches were made in Blois, Paris, Geneva, London and Augsburg in oval, octagonal, cruciform, skull and other 'form' cases of rock crystal, gilt brass, silver and enamel. They were jewellery and status objects as much as timekeepers.
What to look for
- A single hour hand and often a touch-pin hour ring for feeling the time.
- Stackfreed (a cam and spring) instead of a fusee on German watches.
- Pierced and engraved cocks over the balance, fine gut fusee lines.
- Rock-crystal, enamelled or engraved form cases.
Dating clues
- Drum-shaped German watches: c. 1530–1580.
- Oval and form watches: c. 1580–1650.
- Before c. 1675 there is no balance spring; watches can vary by many minutes a day.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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