Vacheron Constantin wristwatch, circa 1920's — view 1 of 3
View 1 of 3 · Image: Antiquorum Genève SA · original image source

Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Vacheron Constantin wristwatch, circa 1920's

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Vacheron Constantin (brand / maker)
Date
circa 1920's
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
18k yellow gold
Dimensions
22
Lot
Lot 389-139
Credit line
Auction lot record: LOT 139
Catalogue title (original)
VACHERON CONSTANTIN, SWITZERLAND, YELLOW GOLD GAY FRERES MESH BRACELET, 18K YELLOW GOLD

View the source record (auction lot) ↗

Record summary

Catalogued by Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva (lot Lot 389-139), this is a wristwatch by Vacheron Constantin, made in Switzerland, dated circa 1920's. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: 18k yellow gold. Recorded dimensions: 22. The record is illustrated with 3 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Antiquorum catalogue description

EUR 1,600 - 2,700 / CHF 1,500 - 2,500 / USD 1,850 - 3,100 / JPY 284,000 - 472,000 A fine, elegant and early, 18k yellow gold, manual wind lady's wristwatch

Lot specifications (Antiquorum)

Caliber: gilt brass, 17 jewels; Case No.: 245273; Movement No.: 393965; Bracelet: 18k yellow gold Gay Freres mesh bracelet, approx. overall length 230 mm.; Signature: dial and movement

Provenance

Property of a Swiss lady

Historical context

Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)

The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.

The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Detached lever escapementIdentification Centre

Related records