Platinum watch with leather strap with gold deployant buckle, Cartier, Paris, mark of Edmond Jaeger, 1928 — view 1 of 2
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Platinum watch with leather strap with gold deployant buckle, Cartier, Paris, mark of Edmond Jaeger, 1928

DocumentedDocumented from the holding institution's catalogue record.
Maker / attribution
Edmond Jaeger (maker); Cartier (retailer)
Date
1928
Country of origin
France
Place
Paris
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
Platinum; leather with gold
Dimensions
Height: 6.7 cm; Width: 1.0 cm; Depth: 4.5 cm
Accession / object no.
M.136-1987
Credit line
The Bettine, Lady Abingdon Collection, bequeathed by Mrs T.R.P. Hole

View the source record ↗

Record summary

Held and catalogued by Victoria and Albert Museum, London (object number M.136-1987), this is a wristwatch by Edmond Jaeger, made in Paris, France, dated 1928. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: Platinum; leather with gold. Recorded dimensions: Height: 6.7 cm; Width: 1.0 cm; Depth: 4.5 cm. The record is illustrated with 2 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

V&A — Summary

This wristwatch was bought by 5th Duke of Sutherland at Cartier, Paris, in 1928, possibly as a wedding present for Bettine Stuart Wortley who married the 8th Earl of Abingdon, 21 August 1928. The wristwatch proved an enduring object of fashion for both sexes. It became a pre-eminent item of male jewellery.

V&A — Physical description

Case: platinum Strap: leather with gold deployant buckle, mark of Edmond Jaeger

V&A — Object history

Bought by 5th Duke of Sutherland at Cartier, Paris, possibly as a wedding present for Bettine Stuart Wortley who married the 8th Earl of Abingdon, 21 August 1928.

Inscriptions & marks

mark of Edmond Jaeger; 'CARTIER'; Paris mark registered in 1908; French gold mark for 1919 ( third standard) and mark for Jaeger

Historical context

Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)

The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.

The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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